Step 1

Season the brisket well with salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

Step 2

Light a charcoal grill and set it up for indirect cooking by raking the hot coals to one side. Close the grill and, using the air vents to control the heat, bring the temperature to 300F.

Step 3

Scatter 1 cup of the wood chips over the hot coals. Set the brisket fat side up on the grill opposite the coals. Close the grill and smoke the meat at 275F to 300F for about 4 hours. Add hot coals as necessary to maintain the temperature. Each hour, add 1/2 cup of the wood chips to the coals and turn the brisket over. Cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 160°F.

Step 4

Wrap the brisket tightly in a double layer of heavy-duty foil and set on the grill opposite the coals. Close the grill and cook the brisket at 275° to 300°F for 2 hours longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the meat registers 190F; add coals as necessary to maintain the heat. Remove the brisket from the heat and let rest in the foil for 30 minutes.

Step 5

Thinly slice the brisket against the grain. Spread the buns with mayonnaise, top with the brisket, cilantro, and pickled vegetables and serve.

Make ahead

The brisket can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat gently in the foil.